Enth Degree - Freeze, Please by Janet Forman
Wine Enthusiast Magazine - December 1, 2005
Gelato wizard Stephanie Reitano is know for creating desserts out of unlikely raw ingredients, like hot peppers, wasabi and goat's milk. The secret behind the clean, clear, sometimes startling flavors of Capogiro Gelato is an artisanal process so painstaking it's rarely used even in Italy these days.

"I'm a little psycho about concepts like sustainable agriculture and using local sources," admits Retiano, who spends five hours each morning creating day's gelato and sorbetto bases out of Lancaster County produce. Some of Capogiro's most intensely flavored gleatos are made from wines and liquors, and while the alcohol must be cooked off before freezing there's no mistaking the flavors in gelatos like Heirloom Apple with Calvados, Melon with Absinthe, Star Anise with Ouzo, Yellow Watermelon with Grappa, and Vin Brulee, an egg-based gelato spiked with seriously reduced Barbera. $10/pint, available at gourmet shops, including Whole Foods, or from www.capogirogelato.com