The New Gelato in Town
New York Magazine - August, 2008
The last time an ice-cream upstart infiltrated the local restaurant-supply market, it was Il Laboratorio del Gelato cutting into Ciao Bella's near-monopoly. This time, it's the Philadelphia-based Capogiro, a six-year-old boutique brand that has been making recent inroads onto the dessert menus of some of New York's most popular restaurants, from Williamsburg's Aurora to the West Village's Dell'anima'and into some of our favorite affogatos (see I Sodi, here). Previously available only by the pint at groceries like Whole Foods and Balducci's, Capogiro gelati and sorbetti are being scooped this summer at a stand situated on the skating-rink steps at Rockefeller Center. Three flavors are available by the $5 cup, from noon to eight daily, and include pineapple-mint, lemon, and bacio, or chocolate with caramelized hazelnuts. Now all we need is someone to make an affogato with Capogiro gelato and La Colombe coffee, another arriviste from the City of Brotherly Love, for a hot-weather Philly special.